Archive for the ‘radiant heating’ Category

Retrofitting a Radiant Heating System to Finished a Basement

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010
Dan Frawley

Dan Frawley

Let’s take the following situation:  You own a home that you bought a few years ago and with time your family has grown to occupy all of the available space.  Without building an addition or planning some drastic renovations, where can you look to increase the livable square footage of your home?  For most people the answer usually is to renovate their unfinished basement to create additional living space.

Now that you have decided to take this step, how will you heat and cool the space?    You could install ductwork if you have a forced air system, but that would require installing a drop ceiling that would significantly reduce the height of the room, and for a person such as myself who is 76 inches tall, that just isn’t going to work, we would hit our head all the time.  For most people that is not the best solution.

The solution that most people decide on, the solution that will only shorten the height of the space by about three to four inches, is to install radiant heat over your existing slab in the basement.

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Radiant Heating and Hardwood Floors

Monday, March 29th, 2010
Boug Mossbrook

Doug Mossbrook

There is a lot of controversy on the Internet regarding radiant heating systems and hardwood floors.  Our most popular package is the overfloor radiant system, where the radiant tubing comes in direct contact with the hardwood flooring.

The radiant tubing can be in contact with the hardwood flooring as long as the temperature stays within the recommended parameters. Always make sure to use a good quality aluminum heat transfer plate to spread the heat across the floor more evenly. The water temperature should not exceed 140 degrees and the surface temp of the floor should not exceed 85 degrees.

If the wood is a very thin type material, you may want to put Luaun down before the hardwood. This will help reduce the “striping” effect by reducing the temperature at the point of contact. Thicker materials will have the effect of spreading out the heat naturally.

Overfloor Radiant System

Overfloor Radiant System

Maple, for example, is one of the most “active” hardwoods in terms of expansion and contraction. Expect there to be gaps during the winter and swelling in the summer. It’s the nature of the wood. We recommend that you acclimatize the wood for several weeks in the space where you are installing the hardwood flooring. This will allow the wood to adjust to the same temp and moisture level as all of the surrounding materials. This is a step that is missed in most installations.

Also, installing the floor during the shoulder seasons is good if possible since the humidity and temperature are in the middle of their range. Expansion and contraction will be 50% in each direction. If you install the floor in the winter, and make it tight, the floor will swell heavily when the humidity rises in the summer.

The same thing for installing it in the summer. If you make it tight then, by winter there will be gaps in the floor.

Call Eagle Mountain at 1-800-572-7831, we would be happy to answer any of your questions about using radiant heating systems with hardwood flooring.

How to select a heat source for your radiant heating system

Monday, March 29th, 2010
Jason Murphy

Jason Murphy

Selecting a heat source for your radiant heating system is easy for large projects since efficient boilers and hydronic geothermal heat pumps offer exceptional value and performance.

Problems arise when you try to select a heat source for small radiant systems of less than 1,000 square feet.

This is a problem for our customers since many radiant heating systems are indeed small. Many customers are adding radiant heating systems to new rooms, barns, and garages.

Radiant Heat Source Options

You have the following options for radiant heat sources:

  • Boiler (Electric/Gas/LP)
  • Tankless Hot Water Heater
  • Traditional Water Heater (Electric/Gas/LP)

On-demand hot water heaters, or instant hot water heaters, are typically the first choice since they are small and most users consider these devices to be cost effective. Water heaters are often considered as an option to reduce costs. Each option has important considerations before you decide on a heat source for a radiant system.

Instant Hot Water for Radiant Systems

If you are planning to use an instant hot water heater, you need to make sure the heat loss of the radiant zone exceeds the minimum output of the water heater. For example, if your water heater modulates down to 15,000 BTUH but the 300 SF radiant zone only needs 5,000 BTUH on the coldest day, your water heater will short cycle and overheat. The solution for a small radiant zone would be to use a buffer tank or to use a traditional tank style water heater.

Water Heaters for Radiant Systems

Tank style water heaters for radiant heating systems present a much different problem. You need to make sure the water heater recovery time is sufficient to satisfy the radiant zone’s heat loss on the coldest day. Water heaters are designed to make cold water hot, and radiant systems operate with a 20 degree temperature differential, which sends warm water back to the tank.  When incoming water is warm, a water heater cannot transfer heat in the needed amount of time or at the required flow rate.

Water heater recovery is measured in gallons per hour. Flow rates for a radiant system can be calculated at 1 gallon per minute for each 10,000 BTUH of heat loss. Due to recovery time, water heaters will work only with very small radiant systems. Larger radiant systems can use water heaters but it is essential to correctly calculate heat loss and select equipment based on recovery time for a 20 degree temperature differential.

Boilers for Radiant Systems

Boilers are an efficient way to make warm water hot. However, when used with a small radiant systems, the heat produced by a boiler may greatly exceeded the radiant zone requirements. Boilers such as the Argo Electric Boiler work great for small radiant systems as you can configure the 2nd heating element with a delay based on the heat loss, thus reducing risks of short cycling. Another solution to this problem is to use a deactivated water heater as a buffer tank.

There are many reasons to use a boiler for small radiant systems. Many boilers can simultaneously heat water for both radiant systems and domestic hot water. Additionally, a boiler provides the opportunity for future expansion of your radiant system.

Important Considerations

When selecting a heat source for a small radiant system, it’s important to consider the heat loss of the radiant zone, the flow rate required to satisfy the heat loss, and the correct equipment needed to make sure your system meets both current and future requirements.

If you require any assistance please contact Eagle Mountain at 1-800-572-7831 or contact us.

Risks of Open Radiant Heating Systems

Tuesday, March 16th, 2010
Source: Quinn Anya (click)

Source: Quinn Anya (click)

With Open style radiant heating systems, the same water that circulates through your floor eventually comes out of your tap.

Eagle Mountain does not recommend using an open type domestic hot water heater system for hydronic heating. This type of system uses a domestic hot water tank as both your domestic hot water source and your heating fluid source.

The huge potential risk here is getting bacteria mixed with your drinking water due to the anti-scald and the auto-mix type faucets used today. They allow the hot and cold water supplies to mix at the faucet. This could introduce water that has been stagnating in a pipe in your floor into your drinking water.

Even if those types of “mixing” faucets aren’t used, the aerator screen and water path would still be exposed to the bacteria while running hot water, and then the bacteria could enter the cold water when it comes through the same path. We recommend using a closed system for all your radiant heating systems.