Archive for the ‘radiant heating’ Category

Can you use Geothermal with Baseboard Radiant Heating?

Tuesday, August 31st, 2010
Boug Mossbrook

Doug Mossbrook

Yes, it’s technically possible, but the answer is NO.

We had a customer write in saying “At my IGSHPA training the instructor told us that using geothermal with baseboard radiant absolutely could be done -because the plumbers used to always oversize the baseboard runs anyway -maxing them out per room -so the lower 120 degree water temp would work.  I would like to know what the engineers up your way say about this.”

The short answer is no, don’t use geothermal with baseboard heating or radiators.

The longer answer is yes, but with a few caveats that will be explained here.  Baseboard heaters use convection heating to heat a room. There are typically fins inside the heater called elements. These elements have a set resistance, which transfers heat energy from the hot water and dissipates it in the form of heat to the surrounding air.

Because the warm air is lighter than the cooler air, it rises out of the top of the heater and the cooler air closer to the floor is drawn in from the bottom to replace the displaced warm air. This is convection.  This cycle continues until the air surrounding your control center or thermostat reaches the specified temperature.

Convection

Convection

The typical operating temperature of water in a baseboard heating system is roughly 160 – 180 degrees fahrenheit.  This high temperature is critical to be as efficient as possible.

Convection does not work with low temperature water from a geothermal heat pump.

And as we all know, a geothermal system is a low temperature heat source, with a maximum output temperature of roughly 115 degrees.  With radiant floor heating or forced air, this water temperature is perfect to heat a room, and it helps keep the geo system as efficient as possible.

115 degree water is not hot enough to adequately dissipate heat for baseboard hydronic systems.  It will dissipate some heat through the fins simply because the water in the pipes is warmer than the room; however, to heat a room to 70 degrees will take a long time, require a lot of energy, and additional surface area (more radiators).

The technical answer whether or not baseboard radiant works with geothermal is yes; however the cost of additional radiators, piping, and reduced efficiency make the correct answer no.  Baseboard radiant is most efficient when incorporated with a boiler system.  A boiler radiant heating system is capable of much higher output temperatures than a geothermal system.

Concrete Slab Radiant Heating — 1/2″ BPEX 12″ Spacing

Friday, August 13th, 2010

Radiant heating is a popular and highly recommended method to heat a concrete slab.  RADIANTMAX radiant heating systems use ½ inch BPEX radiant tubing with a spacing of 12” on center, with a maximum 300 foot loop length.

Why do we use ½” BPEX for Concrete Slab Systems?

A concrete slab is a great conductor of heat energy, and therefore an important thermal mass for radiant heating.  Concrete slabs efficiently store heat energy and release it slowly over time.  Since a concrete slab is efficient at storing heat, a 12” spacing is optimal, and anything closer is unnecessary.

Thermal mass also dictates the required tubing diameter.  ½” BPEX is recommended to heat a concrete slab with low temperature radiant heating.  Since concrete has a limit of the heat it can absorb in a given time, a larger diameter tube will not provide any benefits.

Solar Gain Affects Radiant Tubing Diameter and PEX Spacing

½ inch BPEX is used for indoor concrete slab radiant systems.  Snowmelt radiant systems  use ½ inch BPEX with a 6” spacing to accommodate for the high heat loss. All homes have some passive solar capabilities, and this is taken into consideration with the specification of ½ BPEX spaced 12” on center.

Different types of construction will allow for greater solar gain.  The best type of construction to maximize solar gain is Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) construction.  Eagle Mountain’s Center for Green Technology is build with ICF construction and benefits from significant passive solar gain during winter months.

The thermal mass properties of concrete offer benefits when used in all building components.  ICF walls absorb heat during the day and release it slowly throughout cold nights.  Concrete slabs retain heat for a longer period of time than any other material.

Reasons to Avoid Large Diameter Radiant Tubing

Large diameter radiant tubing requires a more powerful circulator in order to achieve the turbulent flow required for efficient heat transfer.   Bigger is NOT better when specifying tubing for a radiant heating system.  A larger circulator will increase the size and cost of your radiant system, without quantifiable benefits.

Concrete Slab Radiant Heating — 1/2″ BPEX  12″ Spacing

RADIANTMAX concrete slab systems use ½” BPEX with 12” spacing and are available as turn-key radiant slab packages for DIY installers.  Eagle Mountain supplies Insul-Tarp concrete slab insulation as part of its RADIANTMAX radiant heating systems.

Geothermal Case Study: Red Tail Ridge

Tuesday, June 15th, 2010
Red Tail Ridge

Red Tail Ridge

Customer: Red Tail Ridge Winery

Location: Penn Yan, NY

Project: HVAC and Wine Process Cooling with: Geothermal, Radiant, HRV, Energy Management

Web: redtailridgewinery.com

Installer: Geocorp


Red Tail Ridge is a Finger Lakes winery using an Eagle Mountain geothermal system for HVAC and process cooling.

An industry leader in sustainability and innovation, the new facility at Red Tail Ridge will be LEED certified and delivers a 40.1% total energy savings.  The system components include geothermal, radiant heating, heat recovery ventilation, and Ecô energy management.

System Background

The system design calls for a 20-ton closed-loop geothermal heat pump system to heat and cool the building, and to provide chilled water for process cooling. The system consists of four (4) 5-ton Cascade water-to-water heat pumps, a horizontal closed-loop “GeoSlinky” ground loop heat exchanger, and a custom Hydronic Control Panel.

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Two geothermal heat pumps are dedicated to space heating and cooling. Radiant floor heating is installed in the process, case and barrel storage, and bottling areas. A fan coil unit provides for cooling and heating loads in the laboratory located on the mezzanine level.

The other two water-to-water heat pumps generate chilled propylene glycol to meet the process cooling requirements of winemaking.

Horizontal Slinky Loop

The horizontal slinky loop consists of eight trenches, each 130 feet long with 4 feet spacing between each trench. The slinky coil is 34- inches in diameter with 18-inches of pitch. A propylene glycol solution is circulated through the ground loop heat exchanger and the water-source heat pumps by a variable flow/variable speed loop pumping system.

Heat Recovery Ventilation

Ventilation air will be introduced into the building through a heat recovery ventilator (HRV). The HRV includes a flat plate heat exchanger that transfers energy between building exhaust and outdoor air streams.

Control System

The entire HVAC system including wine process cooling is controlled by Eagle Mountain’s Ecô energy management system.  This “virtual control device” replaces all hardware control devices and is accessible from any Internet connection in the world.

The Ecô energy management system has additional benefits for Winemakers.  This browser-based system allows the Winemaker to control and monitor the winemaking process remotely. Ecô provides Winemakers an innovative alternative to manual operation of the Winemaking process.

Click to learn more about The Ecô energy management system.

Design & Installation

Eagle Mountain specified the system design, integrated and supplied all components, and provided consulting services for the application of geothermal technologies for LEED certification.

Geocorp, an alternative energy installer located in Western New York, installed the system at Red Tail Ridge.

Hydronic Snow Melt Systems: Say Goodbye to Shovels

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010
Source: Birdman

Source: Birdman

Will your hydronic snow melt system be ready when winter comes and the snow starts to fall? There is an alternative to constant shoveling and deicing.

Some homeowners and businesses are keeping their concrete driveways and other exterior walkways maintenance-free by installing ice and snow melt systems.

Not only do these in-slab hydronic snowmelt systems eliminate plowing, backbreaking shoveling, and icy spills, they prevent potential damage to the concrete caused by snow-removal equipment and corrosive de-icers.

How Snow Melt Systems Work


The heat element is either hydronic tubing or electric wires. This heat element is embedded in concrete to transfer its heat energy to the slab.

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Hardwood Flooring Installation Tips

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010
Boug Mossbrook

Doug Mossbrook

Are you installing hardwood flooring with a radiant heating system?  Here is the advice of Doug Mossbrook, President/CEO of Eagle Mountain:

I recommend using a glue down. I would use an unfinished quarter sawn oak, and I would glue it down using Bostik glue and sand and finish it in place. Either Bostik’s Best or TKO if you want no VOC’s.

It’s what I used in my house and I was gluing Brazilian cherry which moves more than oak. You lay glue in the area that you can cover in about an hour. Tack the first boards in the 6″ space along the wall with nails but leave them exposed to pull out later.Use 1/2″ blocks along the wall to leave an expansion space that will be covered by your 3/4″ shoe molding, and to give you something to push against.

There isn’t any tubing in the 6″ space along the wall of a room so you don’t need to worry about hitting a nail. Then lay your boards and as you slide the T+G together, some of the glue gets in the joint and will bond the wood together. Use a scrap piece as a block and use a hammer to drive the warped ones tight.

Once you have laid the section, use blocking and shims against the opposite walls or flooring strap clamps that you can use to clamp the floor section together while it dries. Once the glue sets you can do the next section. The Bostik glue is elastomeric which makes it very flexible.

The floor can expand and contract as it needs to. You should let the wood acclimatize in the house for a couple weeks before you do the project. This lets the wood equalize it’s moisture content to the surrounding materials. That way it can expand at the same rate when the humidity and temperature changes.

As far as the finish – use only Street Shoe by Basic Coatings. You have to use a certified finisher. He comes and sands and finishes the floor and can fix your other floors at the same time.

If you have any additional questions, give us a call at 1-800-572-7831.

-Doug Mossbrook

Geothermal Radiant Heating Systems

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010
Dan Frawley

Dan Frawley

Lessons Learned by Dan Frawley

Eagle Mountain is an alternative energy integrator. In plain and simple terms we are experts at combining multiple systems together. A prime example of this is pairing a geothermal heating system with radiant heat delivery. This type of system is something that we get inquiries about all the time.

Most people are under the impression that you cannot combine these two types of systems. They think that because a geothermal system is a low temperature heat source, radiant would not be a viable heat delivery method.

Those people would be wrong.

Geothermal heating with radiant is a great way to heat your home. You get all the benefits of radiant heat combined with all the benefits of Geothermal. The most common implementation of geothermal radiant heat systems is in a new build, but it is fairly common to have inquiries in regards to retrofits. Retrofitting geothermal with radiant poses its own set of issues and there are some common misconceptions that go along with that.

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Prefabricated Radiant Heat Subfloor vs. Radiantmax Overfloor

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010
Dan Frawley

Dan Frawley

If you have unlimited time and money, prefabricated systems are a great solution.  However, if you are a do-it-yourselfer who wants an affordable and easy to install radiant system, then you will benefit from Radiantmax’s overfloor radiant system.

Keep reading to learn why.

Our overfloor packages are designed to be installed between the subfloor and the final flooring material.  Our package consists of Radiantmax bpex, aluminum heat transfer plates, and 5/8” thick furring strips that you would provide yourself.

One of the most popular radiant overfloor systems on the market today is an expensive prefabricated radiant heat subfloor.  This is a great product that offers similar efficiencies to the Radiantmax system. They both consist of similar materials but the prefabricated subfloor comes with the aluminum heat transfer material already installed.

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Retrofitting a Radiant Heating System to Finished a Basement

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010
Dan Frawley

Dan Frawley

Let’s take the following situation:  You own a home that you bought a few years ago and with time your family has grown to occupy all of the available space.  Without building an addition or planning some drastic renovations, where can you look to increase the livable square footage of your home?  For most people the answer usually is to renovate their unfinished basement to create additional living space.

Now that you have decided to take this step, how will you heat and cool the space?    You could install ductwork if you have a forced air system, but that would require installing a drop ceiling that would significantly reduce the height of the room, and for a person such as myself who is 76 inches tall, that just isn’t going to work, we would hit our head all the time.  For most people that is not the best solution.

The solution that most people decide on, the solution that will only shorten the height of the space by about three to four inches, is to install radiant heat over your existing slab in the basement.

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Radiant Heating and Hardwood Floors

Monday, March 29th, 2010
Boug Mossbrook

Doug Mossbrook

There is a lot of controversy on the Internet regarding radiant heating systems and hardwood floors.  Our most popular package is the overfloor radiant system, where the radiant tubing comes in direct contact with the hardwood flooring.

The radiant tubing can be in contact with the hardwood flooring as long as the temperature stays within the recommended parameters. Always make sure to use a good quality aluminum heat transfer plate to spread the heat across the floor more evenly. The water temperature should not exceed 140 degrees and the surface temp of the floor should not exceed 85 degrees.

If the wood is a very thin type material, you may want to put Luaun down before the hardwood. This will help reduce the “striping” effect by reducing the temperature at the point of contact. Thicker materials will have the effect of spreading out the heat naturally.

Overfloor Radiant System

Overfloor Radiant System

Maple, for example, is one of the most “active” hardwoods in terms of expansion and contraction. Expect there to be gaps during the winter and swelling in the summer. It’s the nature of the wood. We recommend that you acclimatize the wood for several weeks in the space where you are installing the hardwood flooring. This will allow the wood to adjust to the same temp and moisture level as all of the surrounding materials. This is a step that is missed in most installations.

Also, installing the floor during the shoulder seasons is good if possible since the humidity and temperature are in the middle of their range. Expansion and contraction will be 50% in each direction. If you install the floor in the winter, and make it tight, the floor will swell heavily when the humidity rises in the summer.

The same thing for installing it in the summer. If you make it tight then, by winter there will be gaps in the floor.

Call Eagle Mountain at 1-800-572-7831, we would be happy to answer any of your questions about using radiant heating systems with hardwood flooring.

How to select a heat source for your radiant heating system

Monday, March 29th, 2010
Jason Murphy

Jason Murphy

Selecting a heat source for your radiant heating system is easy for large projects since efficient boilers and hydronic geothermal heat pumps offer exceptional value and performance.

Problems arise when you try to select a heat source for small radiant systems of less than 1,000 square feet.

This is a problem for our customers since many radiant heating systems are indeed small. Many customers are adding radiant heating systems to new rooms, barns, and garages.

Radiant Heat Source Options

You have the following options for radiant heat sources:

  • Boiler (Electric/Gas/LP)
  • Tankless Hot Water Heater
  • Traditional Water Heater (Electric/Gas/LP)

On-demand hot water heaters, or instant hot water heaters, are typically the first choice since they are small and most users consider these devices to be cost effective. Water heaters are often considered as an option to reduce costs. Each option has important considerations before you decide on a heat source for a radiant system.

Instant Hot Water for Radiant Systems

If you are planning to use an instant hot water heater, you need to make sure the heat loss of the radiant zone exceeds the minimum output of the water heater. For example, if your water heater modulates down to 15,000 BTUH but the 300 SF radiant zone only needs 5,000 BTUH on the coldest day, your water heater will short cycle and overheat. The solution for a small radiant zone would be to use a buffer tank or to use a traditional tank style water heater.

Water Heaters for Radiant Systems

Tank style water heaters for radiant heating systems present a much different problem. You need to make sure the water heater recovery time is sufficient to satisfy the radiant zone’s heat loss on the coldest day. Water heaters are designed to make cold water hot, and radiant systems operate with a 20 degree temperature differential, which sends warm water back to the tank.  When incoming water is warm, a water heater cannot transfer heat in the needed amount of time or at the required flow rate.

Water heater recovery is measured in gallons per hour. Flow rates for a radiant system can be calculated at 1 gallon per minute for each 10,000 BTUH of heat loss. Due to recovery time, water heaters will work only with very small radiant systems. Larger radiant systems can use water heaters but it is essential to correctly calculate heat loss and select equipment based on recovery time for a 20 degree temperature differential.

Boilers for Radiant Systems

Boilers are an efficient way to make warm water hot. However, when used with a small radiant systems, the heat produced by a boiler may greatly exceeded the radiant zone requirements. Boilers such as the Argo Electric Boiler work great for small radiant systems as you can configure the 2nd heating element with a delay based on the heat loss, thus reducing risks of short cycling. Another solution to this problem is to use a deactivated water heater as a buffer tank.

There are many reasons to use a boiler for small radiant systems. Many boilers can simultaneously heat water for both radiant systems and domestic hot water. Additionally, a boiler provides the opportunity for future expansion of your radiant system.

Important Considerations

When selecting a heat source for a small radiant system, it’s important to consider the heat loss of the radiant zone, the flow rate required to satisfy the heat loss, and the correct equipment needed to make sure your system meets both current and future requirements.

If you require any assistance please contact Eagle Mountain at 1-800-572-7831 or contact us.